Likewise, I have visited Vimy and Rusty has it right - it is a startling, scary and very sad place - but also pride-filled and now very dignified and proud. What stunned me was how close the opposing trench-lines were to each other - and for how long the slaughter went on there.
I also visited Beaumont Hamel, Thiepval (overwhelming) and St Quentin, killing fields all.
I feel the real criminal was the guy immortalised in bronze in Whitehall (?) - Sir Douglas Haig - I often wonder why we celebrate this total lunatic. He should have been court-marshalled and executed for what he did to a whole generation of brave young men under his charge.
Edmund Blackadder put it fairly succinctly (and blackly comically) when he said that 20,000 would get chopped to pieces by machine-gun fire so that Field Marshall Haig could move his drinks cabinet ten feet closer to Berlin.
It's now hard to imagine that those beautiful rolling fields resembled th surface of the moon 90 years ago.....