Darling Sconefinger,
It's a slow morning...
Look at the 'Useful Info' section under general discussion for, surprisingly, useful info.
Under no circumstances attempt the nightime journey to Mulsanne sober or with a map, or indeed any form of directions or preparations. Except Preparation H, obviously; it can get humid in a mans shorts during those balmy summer evenings. The fastest part of the circuit these days is the run down to Indianapolis, although personally I can't tell the difference between 210 and 220. Mulsanne has a certain romance about it. I suggest taking along a brace of pheasants to drape over your shoulder or to tuck in your waxed jacket, if stopped by the gendarmes they will provide an excellent alibi. Failing that, a corpse in a rolled up carpet will suffice.
Look at the map on the aforementioned page, you can walk from Tetre Rouge at the top of the page, to Maison Blanche/Porsche Curves near the bottom. A good two hour walk. You can visit Arnage and Indianapolis, and Mulsanne corner either in your car/bike or on a bus. It's walkable if you're a good walker and can be arsed.
I've done the St Malo crossing (from Poole) the last two years, and it's worked ok. The ferry wasn't full, the crossing was pleasant (via Jersey) and it's a fast and simple drive to Le Mans. On the down side, I was the only LM traffic on the boat and the road, so it lacks the atmosphere of the other crossings. I'm still undecided for 2004. Calais is a long drive, but some great roads (if you go off piste) and you have the option of dicing with exotica. Later in the week, there will be the option of diced carrots, but that's for another thread.
As for tickets, you will pay maybe 300% over the odds through an agency, and will probably be forced to buy into their ferry crossing or hospitality (which is a joke, I've never seen glummer people than the ones in their "exclusive hospitality centres") I reckon, and I'm happy to be contradicted, that the best bet is wait until a few months before the race and keep an eye on the Sale or Swap section on this forum, plenty tickets come up, you've just got to be quick. Visit that section now, and scroll back to April/May/June to get a feel for it, and make your own mind up.
Keep me posted on the sister progress, I've started shaving already in anticipation.
H